A Travellerspoint blog

Entries about guatemala

Architectural details

large_0d1523d0-5456-11e8-b7a1-c1c3267ed6cd.jpg

I enjoy picking out and photographing the small (and sometimes not so small) details of buildings. Indeed, I can find myself omitting to photograph the building as a whole as it’s often the details that capture my imagination. Wherever I travel I find building details that intrigue me.

Let’s explore!

Riga

large_7081495-More_Art_Nouveau_treasures_Riga.jpg
Art Nouveau in Riga

Art Nouveau, or Jugendstil as it is also known, was an art and architecture movement of the late 19th to early 20th centuries, at its height 1890–1910. This was an art form that crossed genres, from architecture to interior design to jewellery to textiles, and more. It proposed that art should be a way of life, and that everyday items could be beautiful too. It was inspired by nature – flowers, animals, natural forms. I love the way that its shapes flow organically, and the combination of fluidity of design with the rigidity of stone makes buildings in this style particularly appealing to me.

And Riga is the place to see them! It is famous for its large number of well-preserved (or more often, well-restored) Art Nouveau buildings. These are dotted across the city, but there is a particular concentration of them in one area on and around Elizabetes and Alberta streets.

Riga00097.jpg Riga00098.jpg
Art Nouveau in Riga - 4a Strēlnieku iela

This is one of the most dramatic and dazzling buildings in the district, 4a Strēlnieku iela. It dates from 1905 and is one of many by perhaps the best-known architect of Riga’s Art Nouveau period, Mikhail Eisenstein (father of the famous film director Sergei Eisenstein). Eisenstein’s main concept was that even the smallest thing could be beautiful. I loved the Wedgewood-blue and white colour scheme of this building, and the over-the-top ornamentation with snakes and even robot-like creatures.

7081597-_Riga.jpg Riga00122.jpg
Art Nouveau in Riga - Elizabetes Street

These are two of my favourite images from Riga. On the left, a detail of one of the most famous Art Nouveau buildings in the city, 10b Elizabetes Street, (again by Mikhail Eisenstein). It dates from 1903 and is extremely colourful, adorned with a rich mix of masks, peacocks, sculptural elements and geometrical figures.

And on the right, a detail of no 33 in the same street, yet again the work of Mikhail Eisenstein. In this, Eisenstein made use of elements of almost every historical architectural style that he could think of, from Roman design through the Renaissance and Baroque periods, and on to Classicism. There are decorative masks, stylised plants and geometric forms galore, and all set off, when I was there, by some beautiful purple flowers planted on the balconies.

7081516-More_Art_Nouveau_treasures_Riga.jpg Riga00107.jpg
Art Nouveau in Riga - 13 Alberta iela

This is 13 Alberta iela, another of Eisenstein’s designs and one influenced by his distress at the news of the defeat of Russian fleet in the Russian-Japanese war in 1904. The façade is dominated by two large masks of screaming women (this is one of them) and above these are structures in the shape of upended cones which support the bay windows on the attic floor.

I'll finish this brief look at some of the Art Nouveau glories of Riga with a selection of a few more details:

7081489-More_Art_Nouveau_treasures_Riga.jpg 7081506-More_Art_Nouveau_treasures_Riga.jpg

Riga00102.jpg

Riga00104.jpg Riga00112.jpg

Riga00118.jpg Riga00111.jpg

Art Nouveau in Riga

Vienna

large_7113556-Rich_in_architectural_details_Vienna.jpg
On Tuchlauben, Vienna

For architecture from the same era Vienna is also a delight (and for other reasons too, including food and drink!) The city is rich in architectural details from many eras in fact; the city offers Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau and modern in abundance, although it is probably the Baroque for which it is best known.

7113555-Rich_in_architectural_details_Vienna.jpg
In Vienna

Not being an expert, I am not always able to be sure of the period from which a building dates, especially when so many of them have been reconstructed or redeveloped over the years, but in Vienna it is the flourishes of Baroque and the more recent flamboyance of much of Art Nouveau that continually catches my eye.

7113530-Telemon_Vienna.jpg

The building above and right is on Tuchlauben, an elegant street that leads north west from Stephansplatz. These are caryatids, defined by Wikipedia as ‘a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of a column or a pillar supporting an entablature on her head’. I love to see them and to photograph them as they are usually so elegant and beautiful. I especially like the way that here the caryatid is in a contrasting stone to the rest of the building.

The male equivalent of a caryatid is a telamon. This one (left) is on the Verwaltungsgerichtshofs, on the Judenplatz, which gets its name because it was at the centre of Jewish life in Vienna in medieval times. The Jews lived in a ghetto of just 70 houses, their backs turned to surrounding streets to form a wall, and in the centre was this large square.

Today the square has a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, the work of the English artist Rachel Whiteread. But back to the Verwaltungsgerichtshofs. This houses the Austrian Administrative Court of Justice and was formerly the Bohemian Court Chancellery. It is very ornate with female figures above the entrances representing the cardinal virtues of moderation, wisdom, justice and bravery, and a telamon either side of each. High above an angel blows a trumpet, flanked by more figures.

7113558-Rich_in_architectural_details_Vienna.jpg
An address in stone, Vienna

Here is something a bit different. These little animals in the past served as addresses for a population who might not all be literate. I found this one somewhere in the streets between Stubentor U-Bahn station and the Scwedenplatz – you will have to keep your eyes open for this or similar creatures when you visit Vienna.

Let’s finish our time in this beautiful city with a few photos of one of my favourite buildings to photograph there, the Hofburg Palace, or more specifically its Michaelertrakt – the 19th century St Michael Wing, named after the church it faces. The graceful curve of this building is broken by a grand archway, either side of which a series of sculptural groups tell the story of the labours of Hercules (the work of Italian sculptor Lorenzo Mattielli). The structure is surmounted by a striking central green dome 50 metres high, two smaller ones ornament the ends, there are eagles, trumpeting angels, statuesque figures and coats of arms – and the whole is fabulously Viennese!

large_7113662-Hofburg_Palace_Vienna.jpg

7113793-The_Hofburg_Palace_Vienna.jpg

7113664-Hofburg_Palace_Vienna.jpg

7113665-Hofburg_Palace_Vienna.jpg

Hofburg Palace, Vienna

Italy

large_6266206-In_the_old_town_Ancona.jpg
In the old town, Ancona

The warm colours of Italian houses feature in many photos, including my own, but the details of letter-boxes, signs, carvings of saints etc., are to my eye equally picture-worthy. Here’s a selection:

6266326-Exploring_the_old_town_Ancona.jpg 6266215-Exploring_the_old_town_Ancona.jpg
In the old town, Ancona

large_7491438-Palazzo_Fava_da_San_Domenico_Bologna.jpg
Palazzo Fava da San Domenico, Bologna

7491442-On_Via_Urbana_Bologna.jpg 94840277492372-More_details..gs_Bologna.jpg
Bologna house details

6704099-Building_detail_Serra_San_Quirico.jpg
Building detail, Serra San Quirico
- a lovely small village in Marche

As a Roman Catholic country, Italy has many small shrines to the Virgin Mary on the walls of houses:

7609772-_Monopoli.jpg
House in Monopoli

3783841-The_streets_of_Sorrento_Sorrento.jpg
In Sorrento

4563356-Manarola_shrine_Manarola.jpg 4563355-Manarola_shrine_Manarola.jpg
In Manarola in the Cinque Terre

Elsewhere in Europe

Here is just a random selection of little details captured in a variety of places:

7405064-Hors_Chateau_Liege.jpg
Above a door in the Hors-Château area of Liège, Belgium

large_3324853-Gent_detail_of_building_Gent.jpg
And above another Belgian door, this time in Ghent

This is becoming a theme!

large_K025.JPG
Above a door in Krakow

cb9bde20-5465-11e8-9359-5bc747f430c3.jpg
And in Faro, Portugal

And while we’re in Portugal, we have to include some street signs, made from beautiful azulejos, the traditional glazed ceramic tiles:

7638455-Street_signs_and_azulejos_Faro.jpg

7638448-Street_signs_and_azulejos_Faro.jpg 7638445-Street_signs_and_azulejos_Faro.jpg
Still in Faro

4485129-A_Cascais_street_sign_Cascais.jpg

4505135-Street_sign_Cascais_Cascais.jpg

4505186-The_streets_of_Cascais_Cascais.jpg

In Cascais

Uzbekistan

Let's leave Europe and explore further afield (further for me, that is). If I had to pick out my favourite countries for this sort of detail-spotting, Uzbekistan would be high on the list (along with India, but that is covered extensively in my other blogs).

592918403610578-Shah_i_Zinda..Uzbekistan.jpg
Detail of the Emir Zade Mausoleum at the Shah-i-Zinda

The well-restored (some would say possibly too well-restored) ancient buildings of Samarkand are covered in the intricate tile mosaics typical of this style of Islamic architecture, with blue the dominant colour. As one of our travelling companions, Els, exclaimed at the Shah-i-Zinda, it was indeed at times ‘too much for my eyes!’

large_811557323674971-Shadi_Mulk_A.._Samarkand.jpg
Dome of the Shadi Mulk Aka Mausoleum, Shah-i-Zinda

The Shah-i-Zinda is the holiest site in Samarkand. According to legend, the prophet Elijah led Kussam-ibn-Abbas, first cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, to the Afrosiab hill north east of Samarkand's current location. The legend tells how Kussam came to bring Islam to this Zoroastrian area, and was attacked and beheaded for his trouble. It was believed that despite this he continued to live, and indeed is alive still in an underground palace on this site, which now bears his name; ‘Shah-i-Zinda’ means ‘the Living King’.

large_344184923675096-Gur_Emir_Mau.._Samarkand.jpg
The Gur Emir – detail of dome

The Gur Emir is the mausoleum of Tamerlaine. Wherever you go in Uzbekistan you’ll find it impossible to avoid hearing that name. It seems every nation needs its heroes, and when the Soviets left the country and their heroic statues of Lenin and Marx were pulled down, it was Tamerlaine who took their places on plinths around the country and who came to symbolise for Uzbeks their new-found independence and freedom. Observers from outside might question his credentials as a hero – this is after all a man who, in attempting to conquer the world, left an estimated 17 million people dead in his wake. But in Samarkand in particular he left the legacy of great peace, prosperity and splendour. Naturally then his mausoleum is of a scale to impress.

978103103675094-Gur_Emir_Mau.._Samarkand.jpg
The Gur Emir – interior detail

An unnamed poet is said to have exclaimed on seeing it, ‘Should the sky disappear, the dome will replace it’, and you can sort of see what he meant.

3676483-Samarkand_in_close_up_Samarkand.jpg
Door detail,
Bibi Khanum Mosque

Bibi Khanum was Tamerlaine’s great work, his attempt to build a mosque larger and more splendid than the Muslim world had ever seen. But his ambitions here overstretched the capabilities of his craftsmen, and the mosque was doomed almost from the start, though not from want of effort. He employed the very best slaves and workers, imported 95 elephants from India to haul the wagons and, when he judged the portal too low, had it pulled down and ordered it to be rebuilt. He himself superintended the work, coming to the site each day in his litter, and arranging for meat to be thrown down to the men digging the foundations rather than have them stop working for a moment. The result was a mosque of never-before seen proportions. But this splendour wasn’t to last. Almost from the first day it was in use, the mosque began to crumble, putting worshippers in peril. No one seems to know for certain why this was – maybe the building was simply too ambitious for the technologies of the day. Whatever the reason, this is one ancient structure that has so far defied the attempts of modern builders to restore it properly – and I found it all the more compelling for that very reason!

I will no doubt write more about Uzbekistan in some future blog here, but for now here are just a few more photos from our time there:

3608437-Kukhna_Ark_Khiva_summer_iwan_Khiva.jpg 625097253608525-Juma_Mosque_..lumn_Khiva.jpg
In Khiva - the Khuna Ark, and the Juma Mosque

3684477-Applied_Arts_Museum_Tashkent_Tashkent.jpg
In the Applied Arts Museum, Tashkent

Antigua Guatemala

I could clearly go on a long while with this blog entry, but will finish with just one more place where I found lots of photogenic details, among the earthquake-devastated churches of Antigua Guatemala. This was the country’s third capital. It was founded in 1543 when an eruption of the Vulcan Agua (Water Volcano) destroyed the second capital in the valley of Almononga. In 1566 the city received the name of ‘Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala’ (Very Noble and Very Loyal City of Santiago of the Caballeros of Guatemala), or Santiago de Guatemala for short. Despite the ravages of several earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, the city was the capital and economic centre of the whole Kingdom of Guatemala (today’s southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica.). But in 1773 came the most destructive of all the earthquakes, the Santa Marta, and much of the city’s political and religious infrastructure was destroyed. A proposal was drawn up to move the capital for a third time, and despite some opposition, in 1775, a royal letter was written to order the foundation of a new capital. Left largely in ruins this city might perhaps have crumbled away completely, but enough fabric and people remained to keep it alive. Today’s Santiago de Guatemala, Antigua, is a National Monument and it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979. At its heart is an almost perfect grid of streets and avenues, each of them a gem, lined with picturesque houses (many single-storey because of the constant threat from the forces of nature) and dotted with the skeletons of those ruined colonial churches.

156174244977829-Detail_of_so.._Guatemala.jpg f39e2e20-54f9-11e8-80d1-c5491f4cde36.JPG
Iglesia de Santa Clara, Antigua Guatemala

The convent of Santa Clara was founded in 1699 for a small group of six nuns who moved here from Mexico. With support from the city’s wealthier citizens they constructed a church and convent buildings between 1703 and 1705, but these were destroyed in the earthquake of 1717. The remains standing today are those of a new church and convent started in 1723 and finished in 1734 – and destroyed in 1773.

large_581967904977819-Detail_in_ru.._Guatemala.jpg

466138114977820-Ruins_Catedr.._Guatemala.jpg
Ruins, Catedral de Santiago, Antigua Guatemala

Antigua’s cathedral might well stand as a metaphor for the city itself: built, destroyed, rebuilt, destroyed again, and finally rebuilt for a third time but on much less grand a scale. Now the ruins of its former grandeur lie in the shadows of today’s more modest structure.

I hope this blog has given you a sense of why I love to look for the details of buildings and, as I said at the start, often focus (literally!) on these at the expense of the whole.

Posted by ToonSarah 06:18 Tagged art buildings architecture ruins colour austria italy poland guatemala romania belgium details photography portugal switzerland latvia uzbekistan Comments (13)

In ruins

large_Ruins_Collage_2.jpg

What is it that makes a ruined building so photogenic? Why would a building that is no longer fit for the purpose for which it was constructed somehow look better, in an artistic sense, than it did when complete and fit for purpose? And yet, such is often the case.

The ruins in my photos here range in age from very ancient (the temples of Tikal and Lamanai) to pretty recent (Hiroshima). In some cases the destruction is due to the passing of time, in others it was down to a natural catastrophe or even a deliberate act of man. But all are picturesque in some way, at least to my eye.

Tikal

large_143a_Tikal_view_from_T4.jpg
View of Temples II and III from Temple IV

Tikal is considered one of the greatest sites of the ancient Mayan World. It contains the tallest pre-Columbian structure now standing in the Americas, Temple IV, and many others besides, all scattered across a wide area, and many still hidden by jungle growth and the accumulation of centuries of earth. Those that have been excavated, and (in some cases) restored, tower above the tree tops, giving rise to the nickname that was quoted to us several times by locals: the “New York of Guatemala”. Well, New York it isn’t, but it is all the more amazing for that. To reflect that these massive structures were built so long ago (between the late 7th and early 9th centuries), and without the use of technology, is truly awesome.

4994656-Temple_V_Tikal_Parque_Nacional_Tikal.jpg 4994658-Temple_V_Tikal_Parque_Nacional_Tikal.jpg
Temple V

204203574994665-Another_Lost..onal_Tikal.jpg 477224964994662-Grand_Pyrami..onal_Tikal.jpg
Lost World pyramids
836147824994682-Temple_I_and..onal_Tikal.jpg 49847244994684-Ball_court_a..onal_Tikal.jpg
Temple I, Grand Plaza and Ball Court

721375534994673-Temple_III_T..onal_Tikal.jpg 58279024994672-Temple_III_T..onal_Tikal.jpg
Views of Temple III

Lamanai

large_5004842-The_Mask_Temple_Lamanai.jpg
The Mask Temple, Lamanai

The Lamanai Maya ruins may be less extensive than those at sites elsewhere in Central America, but they are well worth a visit, whether or not you’ve been to some of the other sites. Lamanai means "submerged crocodile" in the Maya language. The site is notable for several reasons. It was occupied long after many other Maya sites had fallen into disuse and neglect (until at least 1650 AD) and unlike other sites, many of its temples were built in layers, each on top of a previous structure, rather than temples being torn down and built anew.

5004851-Jaguar_mask_Lamanai.jpg 5004852-Another_view_of_the_jaguar_Lamanai.jpg
Jaguar Temple

Hundreds of ruins are said to be still hidden in the undergrowth, and here and there you will get glimpses perhaps of a man-made hollow that was once a water reservoir, or a “hill” that almost certainly conceals the remains of a temple. But although on a much smaller scale than Tikal, there are still four notable temples which have been restored, three of which can be climbed.

5004847-Stela_Temple_Lamanai_Lamanai.jpg
Stela Temple (the stela is a replica, with the original in the museum)

5004845-Climbing_the_High_Temple_Lamanai.jpg
The High Temple

5004858-Jaguar_Temple_in_the_mist_Lamanai.jpg
Jaguar Temple in the mist

And while we are in this part of the world ...

Antigua Guatemala

large_984722294977839-Convento_del.._Guatemala.jpg
Convento della Compagnia de Jesus, Antigua Guatemala

204430334977828-Cloister_of_.._Guatemala.jpg
Cloister of Convento de Santa Clara

Antigua, or Antigua Guatemala to give it its full name, was the country’s third capital. It was founded in 1543 when an eruption of the Vulcan Agua destroyed the second capital in the valley of Almononga. In 1566 the city received the name of “Muy Noble y Muy Leal Ciudad de Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala” (Very Noble and Very Loyal City of Santiago of the Caballeros of Guatemala), or Santiago de Guatemala for short. Despite the ravages of several earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, the city was the capital and economic centre of the whole Kingdom of Guatemala (today’s southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica.). But in 1773 came the most destructive of all the earthquakes, the Santa Marta, and much of the city’s political and religious infrastructure was destroyed. And so the capital was moved yet again.

503892164977818-Ruins_Catedr.._Guatemala.jpg
581967904977819-Detail_in_ru.._Guatemala.jpg
Details of cathedral ruins

Left largely in ruins the city might perhaps have crumbled away completely, but enough fabric and people remained to keep it alive. Today’s Santiago de Guatemala, Antigua, is a National Monument and it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979. At its heart is an almost perfect grid of streets and avenues, each of them a gem, lined with picturesque houses (many single storey because of the constant threat from the forces of nature) and dotted with the skeletons of those ruined colonial churches.

4977831-Iglesia_el_Carnen_Antigua_Guatemala.jpg
Iglesia el Carmen

436041264977830-Iglesia_de_S.._Guatemala.jpg 552859024977844-Iglesia_de_S.._Guatemala.jpg
Santa Clara, and San Francisco

Of course my own continent of Europe has more than enough ruins to keep my camera busy!

Pompeii and Herculaneum

large_3782716-The_Basilica_Pompeii_Pompeii.jpg
The Basilica, Pompeii

These are possibly the most famous of European ruins, especially Pompeii. The temples and other buildings near its entrance command great views of Vesuvius beyond, making it easy to imagine your way back into history and the dreadful day in AD 79 when the city was engulfed by pumice and ash. There are grand villas and humble shops, extensive bath-house complexes, theatres and small restaurants – everything that the population would have needed for a comfortable existence in this busy town.

3782948-Small_theatre_Pompeii_Pompeii.jpg
The small theatre

3782905-The_Forum_Baths_Pompeii_Pompeii.jpg
The Forum Baths

422779953782927-The_House_of..ii_Pompeii.jpg
In the House of the Tragic Poet

When Vesuvius erupted in AD 79 Herculaneum was buried in volcanic mud rather than in the lava which engulfed it perhaps more famous neighbour, Pompeii. It lay hidden and nearly intact for more than 1600 years until it was accidentally discovered by some workers digging a well in 1709. This has resulted in a different type of preservation of its ruins, with the mud doing relatively little damage to the buildings, instead slowly filling them from the bottom up.

646264423782671-The_House_of..erculaneum.jpg 225677983782750-The_House_wi..erculaneum.jpg
Herculaneum - House of the Relief of Telephus & House with the Large Portal

Herculaneum was a smaller town with a wealthier population than Pompeii at the time of its destruction. You can easily imagine that the seaside villas would have been very desirable residences, and the lifestyle of those who occupied them would have been wonderful – sipping wine on the terraces overlooking the bay, with slaves catering to your every need, beautiful mosaics and friezes adorning the walls, a pleasant climate away from the hassles of the city. I loved wandering around envisaging all this – but then also contemplating the terror that must have descended on this peaceful spot when the inhabitants suddenly realised the enormity of what was happening to the mountain that looms over it.

605713213782822-The_House_of..erculaneum.jpg
The House of Neptune & Amphitrite

402571793782805-The_Hall_of_..erculaneum.jpg
The Hall of the Augustals

346285623782703-Fresco_The_H..erculaneum.jpg 109717683782702-Fresco_The_H..erculaneum.jpg
In the House of the Deers

Athens

large_bTemple_of_Zeus3.jpg
The Temple of Zeus

gAcropolis1.jpg
On the Acropolis

Our only visit (to date) to Athens was a fleeting one, with the main aim being to take in a football match between our team, Newcastle United, and local team Panionios (not to be confused with the more famous Panathinaikos). But as always on our football trips we made sure to fit in some sightseeing and take in the ruins of the Acropolis and a few other places in the city.

gAcropolis5.jpg

gAcropolis4.jpg

gAcropolis2.jpg

The Parthenon - details

Heidelberg

large_765017734875669-View_of_Heid..Heidelberg.jpg
Heidelberg Castle

Mark Twain said of Heidelberg:
“A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude.”

4875678-Heidelberg_Castle_detail_Heidelberg.jpg
Heidelberg detail

208458044875680-Ottheinrichs..Heidelberg.jpg
Ottheinrichsbau, Heidelberg Castle

Heidelberg claims on a leaflet we picked up there to be “the world’s most famous castle”, and while that is definitely debatable, it is certainly very imposing and packed with history. It was built over a period of more than three hundred years during the 14th to 16th centuries, and therefore combines mainly Gothic and Renaissance styles of architecture. In 1693 it was blown up by the troops of Louis XIV, and the town burned to the ground. A few years later the residents, who had fled, returned to rebuild their town, using many stones from the castle as they did so, and it remained in ruins until 1742 when Elector Karl Theodor began to rebuild it. In 1764 however a bolt of lightning destroyed several buildings. The work was discontinued and the castle remains partly in ruins to this day.

Some English ruins

Many of our explorations closer to home are in the north east, on our regular trips to see family in Newcastle, so I can’t omit some of the wonderful ruins in that region.

large_194750406324159-Island_panor..indisfarne.jpg
Panorama of Lindisfarne village with the ruined priory

Holy Island, or Lindisfarne, is, in my view, one of the most magical places in England. A small “semi-island” (that is, an island only at high tide), it has been a centre of spirituality since St Aidan founded a monastery here in the seventh century AD. Situated in the heart of the small village, the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory define what Holy Island is all about. This rich monastery on an isolated island was a prime target for Viking raiders who pillaged this coast. In 875, as a result of their repeated attacks, the monks left. But in 1150 Benedictine monks from Durham returned and built a new priory here. This was to survive until Henry VIII closed it in 1537, destroying the buildings and using some of the stones to build the island’s castle.

6324166-Lindisfarne_Priory_Lindisfarne.jpg
Priory ruins

Today only a skeleton of the formerly imposing church remains, its so-called “rainbow arch” an evocative remnant of a vault-rib of the now-vanished tower. Around it are the foundations of the monastic buildings – kitchen, refectory, chapter house, cloister etc. With a little imagination you can start to visualise what life would have been like for this remote religious community – devoting their lives to the worship of God in this magical, spiritual place.

6324167-St_Cuthbert_Lindisfarne.jpg 6324164-Lindisfarne_Priory_Lindisfarne.jpg
St Cuthbert statue and priory ruins

Where the River Tyne flows into the North Sea lies Tynemouth, with its ruined fortified priory on a headland just north of the river mouth.

large_P1110681.jpg
Tynemouth Priory from the Spanish Battery

This promontory has been a strategically important spot since the time of the Saxons, who named it Pen Bal (or Benebal) Crag and founded a priory here in the 7th century. In 651 King Oswin of Deira was murdered and his body brought to Tynemouth for burial, the first of three kings to be buried here. He was later canonised and his burial place became a shrine. But in 875 the Danes destroyed the priory, after repeated raids. By the 11th century it had long been abandoned and the burial place of St. Oswin forgotten. But when a young hermit, Edmund, reported seeing St. Oswin in a vision in which the saint showed him his tomb, that tomb was rediscovered and the monastery restored. The building of the Norman church began in 1090, and the whole monastery was substantially completed by the end of the 13th century. The priory was dissolved under Henry VIII in 1538 and the king took ownership of the neighbouring castle and strengthened the fortifications of this strategic site. The church also was left standing, possibly because of its importance as a landmark for shipping along this often treacherous coast.

7463216-From_the_south_Tynemouth.jpg 484085377463217-East_side_wi.._Tynemouth.jpg
From the south, and from the east

This coast is also famous for its castles. A few, like Bamburgh, are still relatively intact (and therefore not included here) but others form rather dramatic ruins, none more so perhaps than Dunstanburgh which stands on a small headland north of the fishing village of Craster and is accessible from there only on foot.

large_P1000479.jpg
Dunstanburgh Castle

Another favourite of mine is Warkworth which dominates the small village of the same name:

6626172-Warkworth_Castle_gatehouse_Warkworth.jpg
6626173-Warkworth_Castle_Warkworth.jpg 6626174-Warkworth_Castle_Warkworth.jpg
Warkworth Castle

And of course we can’t talk about the ruins to be found in the north of England without mentioning the most extensive of them all – Hadrian’s Wall and the associated forts and mile castles. In the early years of the second century AD the northern limit of the Roman Empire lay in what is now the north of England. The Emperor Hadrian commanded a Wall to be built in order to keep "intact the empire", but probably also to assert the supremacy of Roman power. This wall had a series of forts at approximately five mile intervals, where soldiers guarding the frontier were stationed. Of those that still have some remains, Housesteads, or Vercovicium to give it its Roman name, is probably the best known and most visited:

7464349-Principia_Housesteads.jpg

673139327464346-Visiting_Hou..ousesteads.jpg

7464352-Outer_wall_with_oven_Housesteads.jpg

Views of Housesteads Fort

large_7464366-Hadrians_Wall_Housesteads.jpg
Hadrian's Wall from Housesteads

Hiroshima

I will finish with a building whose ruins stand as testament to the horrors that man can inflict on man, the Genbaku Dōmu or Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima.

large_713275636909869-Genbaku_D333.._Hiroshima.jpg
Genbaku Dōmu: the Atomic Bomb Dome

When, at 8.15 am on August 6th 1945, the first atomic bomb was detonated over Hiroshima, the city became in an instant one of the most famous in the world; but what city would ever have wanted that sort of fame?

The atomic bomb’s target was the Aioi Bridge but it missed this slightly and exploded almost directly above this building, which was at the time an exhibition hall known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. Because the blast was felt from immediately above, hitting the structure vertically, a surprising amount remained intact even though, of course, everyone inside was killed instantly.

592346186909875-Genbaku_D333.._Hiroshima.jpg

For some years after the war the skeleton of the building remained as it was. There were some who felt it should be pulled down and the site redeveloped, while others argued for its restoration and yet others for its preservation as a ruin, to stand as a memorial to what had happened and to those who had lost their lives. The latter group won the day, and in 1966 the city council declared that it intended to preserve the building, undertaking only the minimal work necessary to ensuring its stability. In December 1996, the Atomic Bomb Dome was registered on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its listing was based on its survival from a destructive force, the first use of nuclear weapons on human population, and importantly its representation as a symbol of peace.

358485036909876-Genbaku_D333.._Hiroshima.jpg

Posted by ToonSarah 01:22 Tagged churches castles greece england japan ruins fort germany cathedral guatemala belize hiroshima Comments (11)

Faces of the world

large_Faces_Collage.jpg

In my last entry, Markets, I mentioned how much I enjoy taking photos of local people on my travels. Of course, people’s willingness to be photographed varies enormously from place to place – they certainly don’t always share my pleasure, I have to confess. I also have to confess to shooting candid photos on many occasions – not only because I realise that my chosen subject may be unwilling to pose but also (and primarily) because I prefer the natural look of an unposed portrait. That said, if anyone sees my camera and asks me to put it away or not take their photo, I always do so.

Africa

4675897-Musician_in_La_Mouette_Essaouira.jpg
Musician in Essaouira

My experience of photographing people in the various African countries we have visited is quite variable. In Morocco I found most locals very wary of my camera – even to the point that on a recent visit I was challenged to show two men the photo they claimed I had just taken of them, when I had not actually done so. It was only when I showed them every image, right back to those of our flight the previous day, that they believed me. You can imagine that I was very careful not to alert anyone there when taking pictures, and to restrict myself to long range shots. Some of these may find their way into later entries, but this one is focused (literally) on faces.

But in sub-Saharan Africa, on trips to Senegal and the Gambia, I found people much less interested in me and my camera, and portraits were relatively easy to capture.

Gambia

I have already shared some images from the huge street market of Serekunda in my earlier entry on Markets, so here are just a few of the portrait shots I captured there:

Serrekunda0017.jpg 6994321-Serekunda_Market_The_Gambia.jpg
large_7708632.jpg
In Serekunda Market

Our tour to the small villages of villages of Albreda and Juffureh offered much better opportunities to take photos of local people. I described that tour as follows on my Virtual Tourist page about the Gambia:

If you have read Alex Haley's book, Roots, have seen the TV series or are simply interested in the history of slavery in The Gambia and West Africa, this tour provides an interesting insight into the places and people behind his story and that of thousands of others. You board a boat in Banjul for the two hour journey on the River Gambia to the villages of Albreda and Juffureh. In the former you visit a museum dedicated to the slave trade and see various monuments to that time, as well as getting the opportunity to observe village life (albeit somewhat distorted by the locals' understandable desire to entertain and thus make money out of the many tourist groups). In Juffureh you meet the village chief (when we visited, February 2014, the role was taken, unusually, by a woman) and also members of Kunta Kinteh's family. The latter was the ancestor of Alex Haley to whom he traced his roots, and this village was his home.

6994239-Kinteh_family_member_The_Gambia.jpg 7708633.jpg
Kinteh family member, and village chief, Juffureh

large_6994256-In_Albreda_The_Gambia.jpg
Villager, Albreda

Senegal

To visit the southern part of Senegal, as we did, you need to start in Banjul, Gambia, and catch the ferry across the river – a perfect people-watching and people-photographing opportunity:

Photo_04-0..6__10_53_03.jpg

Photo_02-0..6__10_07_30.jpg

Photo_02-0..6__09_27_37.jpg

Once in Senegal, we took every opportunity to get out and about from our hotel bases, and met local people wherever we went:

7577781-Local_woman_in_Djiffer_Djifere.jpg
Local woman in Djifere

7578285-More_market_photos_Ngueniene.jpg
At the market in Ngueniene

7580190-At_the_market_in_Ngueniene_Fimela.jpg
At the market in Ngueniene

7580206-Locals_after_the_Mass_Fimela.jpg 7708630.jpg
Locals after mass in Mar Lodj, and animal trader in Ngueniene

India

There is no difficulty in India in taking photos of the people. While a few may wave away your camera, most are tolerant of it and many not only willing but eager to pose. As I have said, I prefer a natural look to my photos, so while I will take the posed shots, and show or share them if asked, I usually take a few extra when my subject is less aware that I am doing so.

large_Khimsar_8_Hotel_K_Fort.jpg
Security guard, Khimsar Fort hotel

173409467534340-More_photos_..ge_Khimsar.jpg Khimsar_28_village.jpg
In Khimsar

7553523-On_City_Palace_Road_Udaipur.jpg 7553522-On_City_Palace_Road_Udaipur.jpg
Locals in Udaipur

On both our recent visits to the country we have spent quite a lot of time driving (or rather, being driven) from town to town, and with all the activity to be seen on and beside the road there are plenty of opportunities to grab some candid shots. I already shared this photo in my Road to Jaipur blog, but it's one of my favourites and I can't resist also including it here:

large_Road_to_Jaipur_28.jpg
Camel herder on the road to Jaipur

Japan

This was another place where I found it very easy to get some good portrait shots, with many people willing to pose or to ignore my camera:

Photo_06-10-2013_06_44_24.jpg
Wedding at the Meiji Shrine, Tokyo

6927605-Rickshaw_driver_Takayama.jpg
Rickshaw driver, Takayama

125068956927655-More_shots_o..t_Takayama.jpg
Market stall-holder, Takayama

668618586941775-Toshogu_Shri..tion_Nikko.jpg Photo_08-10-2013_18_01_57.jpg
Two different faces of modern Japan - Buddhist nun and bullet train guard

Latin America

On occasion it is worth ‘paying’ for a shot. The lady below, in Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala, was happy to pose in return for our purchase of one of the little bead key-rings she was selling, while the guy in Jamaica was equally happy to be in my shot once I had bought a cold drink from his shack:

172103864991022-Local_costum..Panajachel.jpg 3963243-Faces_of_Jamaica_Jamaica.jpg

Others there though were perhaps just too spaced-out to notice my camera at all!

040_OR_Nine_Mile_03_F.jpg
Guy selling grass at Bob Marley's birthplace

037_K_Bob_M_Museum_04_F.jpg
At the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston

A few more of my favourites from that part of the world, taken on our recent trip to Chile, and a couple of years ago in Ecuador:

4_127_Atac..16_Machuca_.jpg
Kebab seller, Machuca, Chile

large_12_13_Rapa..6_Ahu_Tahai.jpg
Souvenir seller, Rapa Nui

1_6_Santia..za_de_Armas.jpg
In the Plaza de Armas, Santiago, Chile

6468709-Otavalan_dress_Otavalo.jpg
Local in Otavalo market

Europe

90_P1110103.jpg
Musician, Tallinn

Special events often provide an opportunity for candid photography, such as the Old Town Days celebrations in Tallinn which I saw while at a Virtual Tourist meeting there in 2014, and the same city’s Medieval Days a year later on a return visit:

Tallinn00022.jpg 7095472-_Tallinn.jpg
Musician and stall-holder, Tallinn Old Town Days

7442090-Stall_holder_Tallinn.jpg
Stall-holder, Medieval Days fair, Tallinn

Closer to home

Here’s a selection from much closer to home, in London:

P1000196.jpg
90_P1000251.jpg 90_P1000215.jpg 90_P1000316.jpg
Performers at a carnival at City Hall, London

P1120582.jpg
Portobello Road Market

And finally, let us remember that portraits don’t always have to include the face to tell you something about the person portrayed, so here are three photos taken from behind the subject:

7534386-And_colourful_turban_Khimsar.jpg
In Rajasthan

6612571-Choosing_a_scarf_Lisbon.jpg
Football fan in Lisbon

6877327-Geisha_Japan.jpg
Geisha, Kyoto

Posted by ToonSarah 05:42 Tagged people parties london japan india chile guatemala jamaica photography tallinn ecuador rapa_nui street_photography Comments (8)

Markets

large_Markets_Collage.jpg

Another of my favourite subjects for photography is a local market – the more colourful and livelier the better. There are two main attractions for me as a photographer – the variety of often unfamiliar produce on display, and the local people who shop or sell in these markets. I will feature ‘People’ as a theme in a later blog entry for sure, but some are certain to find their way into these market photos too!

Some of the best markets I have visited have been in Africa.

Senegal

large_7578291-Market_day_in_Ngueniene_Ngueniene.jpg

Every Wednesday there is a large market in the village of Ngueniene, which draws people from miles around - to buy or to sell, but also, it seemed to me, to meet and gossip. A visit here is a popular outing for tourists, but still they are hugely outnumbered by the locals and it is a totally authentic experience. In fact there are two markets - one for animals and one for everything else - and I mean everything!

7578267-The_general_market_Ngueniene.jpg 7578281-More_market_photos_Ngueniene.jpg

large_7578283-More_market_photos_Ngueniene.jpg

large_7578269-The_general_market_Ngueniene.jpg
In the general market, Ngueniene

You have to be a little discreet if you want to get photos of the locals here. Most people don't mind you photographing the goods on sale, and some of the men were happy to be in my photos, but on the whole the women preferred not to be photographed. If they asked me not to, I put the camera down, but I have to admit to shooting a few of these pictures "from the hip"!

7578268-The_general_market_Ngueniene.jpg 7578281-More_market_photos_Ngueniene.jpg

7578266-The_general_market_Ngueniene.jpg
There were exceptions to the 'no photo' rule, as you can see

After spending some time in the main market we moved on to the animal market on the other side of the village, travelling between the two on a traditional horse cart. Here there is a much narrower range of goods on offer – goats, sheep, cows, donkeys and horses. Until very recently, our guide told us, all business was done here by exchange - two goats for one sheep, five sheep for one cow and so on. Nowadays people are more likely to use cash, but some trading still goes on.

large_7578276-The_animal_market_Ngueniene.jpg
The animal market

While the men we saw were obviously here to sell, it also seemed to me to be a great excuse for them to catch up with friends as there was a lot of standing around chatting going on. I found that they were more relaxed and generally seemed less bothered by my camera than in the busy main market.

7578277-The_animal_market_Ngueniene.jpg 7578278-The_animal_market_Ngueniene.jpg
Animal traders, Ngueniene

Gambia

large_7440701-Serrekunda_market.jpg
Serekunda market

Serekunda Market is the largest in The Gambia – a mad melee of sellers, shoppers and a few tourists that pack the streets of this small town every day.

large_6994317-Serekunda_Market_The_Gambia.jpg

The market takes place all day and every day. Few Gambian homes have freezers, and with frequent power cuts the fridge cannot be relied on to keep food fresh, so the women (and it is still always the women) shop daily for fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, fish etc. The place was so packed it was hard to make progress at times, especially with the occasional car or bush taxi trying to squeeze through the crowds and the many porters with their wheelbarrows (all licensed by the government, with "number plates" to prove it).

6994320-Serekunda_Market_The_Gambia.jpg 6994318-Palm_oil_seller_The_Gambia.jpg

6994319-Okra_and_more_The_Gambia.jpg
Tomatoes, palm oil and okra among the goods on sale

Marrakesh

The souks of Marrakesh are perhaps the most photographed markets of all. Unlike in sub-Saharan Africa, I’ve found it much harder here to include local people in my photos as they are really not happy to see a tourist camera pointed in their direction, but if you’re discreet then it can be done:

7699637-The_Northern_Medina.jpg 7699638-The_Northern_Medina.jpg
In the Northern Medina

North of the Djemaa el-Fna the narrow souks weave and intersect in the most confusing (to the visitor) of manners. Locals outnumber tourists here, even though this is the Marrakesh that everyone comes to see. Donkey carts and mopeds add to the confusion and at times it is difficult to even find the space in which to stand and take a photo! The goods on display are so distinctive and vividly coloured that they form my favourite subject-matter here:

7699647-Flower_heads_Marrakesh.jpg 7699642-Souks_in_the_Medina.jpg

7699798-Lanterns_and_lamps_Marrakesh.jpg 7699644-Display_of_spices_Marrakesh.jpg 7699641-Souks_in_the_Medina.jpg

7699645-Dyes_Marrakesh.jpg 4674015-Exploring_the_souks.jpg 4674013-Exploring_the_souks.jpg

In Latin American countries too we have been to some wonderful markets. Here is a selection of photos from that part of the world:

129_Patzun.jpg
Market day in Petzun, Guatemala

104_Santiago_market.jpg
Bananas for sale, Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala

533635294988038-Bananas_for_..go_Atitlan.jpg
Bananas sellers, Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala

2851004-Pisac_market_stall_Cusco.jpg
Pisac market stall, Peru

2880331-People_of_Peru_Peru.jpg
Pisac, Peru

8B757516F9BF2AC712C5C3941A54CA48.jpg
Mercado Central, Santiago, Chile

6468722-Roast_pig_for_lunch_Ecuador.jpg
Roast pig, Otavalo Market, Ecuador

But you don’t have to leave Europe to find colourful markets. Let me finish with a selection of images from several European cities:

P1100736.jpg
In Riga's Central Market

7095016-_Tallinn.jpg
Local market in Tallinn

6760115-In_the_market_Sibiu.jpg
In Sibiu's produce market

7491410-Mercato_dele_Erbe_Bologna.jpg 7491411-Mercato_dele_Erbe_Bologna.jpg
7491409-Mercato_dele_Erbe_Bologna.jpg
Melons for sale in Bologna's Mercato delle Erbe

If you've enjoyed this page you'll find lots more of my market photos in my blog entries about Jaipur, Otavalo, Pujili and Munnar, among others.

Posted by ToonSarah 06:38 Tagged people food india peru market bologna fruit chile guatemala romania morocco photography riga vegetables tallinn ecuador marrakesh gambia senegal Comments (8)

(Entries 1 - 4 of 4) Page [1]